Silks and its presence in India

Indian silk has been popular the world over - for its sheer variety of designs, weaving and quality. This is largely due to the fact that India has the unique distinction of producing different varieties of silk. There are four main varieties of silk produced by a distinct variety of silkworm feeding on a specific host plant. Silk is a protien fibre, produced by the silkworm for spinning around its cocoon. This fibre (filament) is unwound to obtain silk.Yarn is produced by twisting the fibre, which is then dyed, warped and finally woven to produce fabric.

Maharashtra is known for its Paithani silk saris, which generally come in kum-kum colors in combination with a contrasting color. Paithani are generally decorated with the gold dot or coin motif.Ganeshpur, a village in Bhandara district in Maharashtra is famous for the Kosa silk. The state of Madhya Pradesh is famous for Chanderi, Maheshwari and Tussar silk saris. Chanderi sari is known for soft colors and the harmonious balance between the border and the
body of the sari. These saris are also known for their contrasting colors and the depiction of animal and humanfigures on them. Maheshwari sari is known for its elaborate patterns and border. These saris have exotic motifs done inzariand pleasant colors, both inspired by nature. Tussar silk or Kosa silk is valued for its purity and texture as it is available naturally in shades of gold-pale,dark,honey, tawny, beige, creamy, etc. Tussar silk saris are considered auspicious. It is a special variety of silk, as the cocoons are raised on Arjun and Sal trees. They come in a range of colors and are decorated with a variety of natural motifs. Tussar silk is also produced in Bihar. Silk Bomkai Sambalpuri saris from Orissa are also in single and double ikat. In contrast to the ikats of Gujarat,theses saris are sober in color and decorated with curved forms. The pallav of these saris have floral and animal patterns on them.

PRODUCING SILK

Silk is a fibrous substance produced by many insects principally in the form of a cocoon or covering within which the creature is enclosed and protected during the period of its principal transformation. Usually there arethree crops per year of cocoons. Starting from July-August, September-October and November-December. Each crop acts as a seed cocoon for the next one till the third one has matured. There are two varieties of silk- pure silk and blended silk. The process before the silk is obtained starts with the laying of the egg by the mother moth followed by the emergence of the caterpillar or larvae which weaves a cocoon (also known as pupa or chrysalis) and then the yarn is procured. Silk worms are reared in different parts of India. There are various species of silk worms that are cultivated in India, the most popular being the mulberry silk moth of China-Bombay Mori - besides the Mooga, Tasar and Eri. Banaras is one of the leading silksari producing centers of India. It is known for its heavy gold-silver brocades. Hair thin wires of gold and silver are obtained by heating the metal and passing it through minute holes. These wires are then used with silk yarn
for weaving.TheAmru silk brocades of Banaras are not only famous in India but also abroad. Jamvar, Navrangi (nine colors), Jamdani etc are other brocade types from the range of Banarasi saris. Patola silk saris are the pride of Gujarat. These saris are created by using the resist dying technique. There are two types of Patola saris. The Rajkot patola is only vertically-resist dyed (single ikat), while the Patan patola is horizontally-resist dyed (double ikat). The yarn is resist dyed before it is used in weaving. Patola saris are known for their flaming bright colors and geometric designs interspersed with folk motifs. Maharashtra is known for its Paithani silk saris, which generally come in kum-kum colors in combination with a contrasting color. Paithani are generallydecorated with the gold dot or coin motif. Chanderi sari is known for soft colors and the harmonious balance between the border and the body of the sari. These saris are also known for their contrasting colors and the depiction of animal and human figures on them. Maheshwari sari is known for its elaborate patterns and border. These saris have exotic motifs done in zari and pleasant colors, both inspired by nature. Tussar silk or Kosa silk is valued for its purity and texture as it is available naturally in shades of gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny, beige, creamy, etc

GRADING SILK

Unlike cotton which is graded in counts, silk is graded in deniers. In cotton the lesser the count the thicker the material and the higher the count the thinner the material. While in silk it is the opposite with the lesser denier yearn producing a finer silk and a thicker denier producing a heavier silk.Today silk is not just restricted to saris. A wide range of ladies' and men's wear like dupattas, garments, fabrics, caps, handkerchiefs, scarves, dhotis, turbans, shawls, ghagras or lehengas, and even quilts, bedcovers, cushions, table-cloths curtains are made of silk.

Designer Sarees

The look of sari is changing. In a decided shift from its graceful, elegant image, the sari is now fun, providing enough length in its 6 yards for the wearer and designer to experiment freely. Designer sarees have become very popular nowadays. Manufactures of the latest designer sarees are using different types of fabrics and designs to make this ethnic Indian attire look gorgeous and different. Indian Designer sarees are basically for formal occasions, weddings and marriages. Designer sarees are not any region or style specific. Any type of saree whether embroidered, printed, silk or cotton can be given a designer look to distinguish it from other regular sarees.